Sad News Alert

Moira Rose is DEAD!

Im still trying to find the hifi audio tap point on the vhs deck.
I have had a look around on the discord and nobody else seems to have used the same deck i have, so its pretty sparse of information, But when i was looking for info on the chip i think is processing the audio, i found a thread on digitalfaq that mentions that another deck uses the same IC, but under a different part number, and that deck is mentioned on the discord, and someone confirms its a hifi tap point. The only problem is, the schematic doesnt for that deck, doesnt share much with the deck i ownπŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

Ive looked for the datasheet for the ic my deck uses, and there is absolutly nothing out there about it except the forum post mentioned earlier, and listings for datasheets that lead nowhere.

I will say, the documentation for the vhs-decode project could use some work.
Its not bad, all the information is there, its just... a mess, in my opinion.

They use github for the documentation, but i think its kinda outgrew it. They could use a dedicated website, whether thats something custom or just a mediawiki instance, im sure it would make things much easier for people to find what they are looking for.

But i aint gonna do it, so πŸ€·β€β™‚πŸ˜‚

The pcb i previously mentioned is for helping rip VHS tapes, Im trying to do it the "vhs decode" route. I originally purchased a vhs player to do it a few years ago, but it turned out to not be suitable for the job, so i ended up buying another one at the beginning of last year, then my friend died which has fucked me up and derailed pretty much all projects i was working on.

I have a shit load of vhs tapes laying around, so i wanna make a copy of them using the vhs decode method, and then get rid of them, Which should free up a decent amount of space.

Im using a Panasonic NV-SD240B, which is advertised as 'HiFi', but fuck if i can find the HiFi audio test point on it.

I have hooked up what im hoping is the RF video output, Im using the little amp board thats made for the project, which is the pcb i was looking for earlier, i just hope ive calculated the gain correctly.

Ive modded the CX card to remove cap 31(?), and the crystal. I have what i need to make the clockgen mod, but i would like to find that hifi point, if i can then it makes the clockgen mod easier to build as i wont need the linear audio part.️

Found it, I have no idea why but i put it in my screwdriver drawer, wtf πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

So that prject i mentioned last post, i lost the pcb, well i made a new one last night. Just started working on the project again... and its fucking disappeared...πŸ˜’πŸ˜‘

I know i keep saying it, but its so fucking hot, i hate it.

I thought i might pick up an older project, if i can get it done, i can save myself a lot of space by getting rid of half the crap i have i need to actually proceed with the project.

I had the pcb all soldered up and in an antistatic bag, I had it in my hands the other day, cause i was looking for something else and saw it and thought "huh i should finish this", then put it somewhere and i have no fucking idea where. Ive looked in 4 boxes, 6 draws and other places, I cant find i for shit πŸ˜­πŸ˜’

In other news, the phone has arrived...

Fucking annoying me i dont know why the leds worked without issue the other day, and it wasnt a fluke, i did multiple differant tests and ran differant test patterns to make sure it was stable. Now today its just not working at all. even with the exact same setup. I just cant wrap my head around it. So fucking frustrating. This is why i detest working with c / c++

Oh fuck it. i give up. i cant be bothered with this shit anymore.

Im using the EXACT same code i posted about the other day, u know, the one where i said i finally got it working, then posted a picture (maybe a gif) of it working? Well its not not working. Same pcb, same code, same power supply, same raspberry pi. Literally nothing has changed. Now its just "kinda" working, as in, every so often, if you dont have an eppie whilst looking at it, it will show the correct pattern.

I cant deal with this bs atm.

Just working on the code. Im trying to think waht i might need before i start doing anything major. I think a mode selection would be a good start. that will then give me pretty defined code areas for each mode.

I could have swore i had 1 more spool of red filament, but apparently not.
Just ordered some, it will be here tomorrow.

Right, ive decided this is the last print of the frame im going to do unless something is majorly fucked up. If something else is wrong, ill just modify the model, and modify the already printed part. The reason being, ive still got a lot of the waltzer to print, which is gonna use the same red, and i dont really wanna break into a new spool until i need to.

Ive gone over the model multiple times, i cant see anything else i might need to adjust. They have predicted another heatwave over the rest of the week and weekend, So i wanna get this printing done before that hits.

I added a chamfer to the mount holes for the encoder / knobs, Not that it would ever be visible. Oh i modified the main edge fillet on the frame too, i changed the tangent value, which looks like it might print better, but i have my doubts.

Something i have noticed on the version that finished printing earlier is that the radius on the edges of the frame dont feel very... radiussy.. I dont know the word for it. But it feels more like a rounded chamfer than a true radius. Not sure why, but hopefully the adjustment i made will change that for the better. Guess ill find out laterπŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

It annoys me how thick it is. Its only that thick because of the batteries😐

I fucked up the back cover posts on the frame side πŸ˜‘
I made the posts 3mm shy of the top of the back of the frame, and the back is 3mm, which means the screws would have been poking out the back. I should have made them 4mm shorter to allow room for the screw heads 😭

So now i have to decide if i wanna reprint the entire frame just to have shorter posts.
I know it will annoy me if i dont do it. But i dont wanna print it and then realize i need to make another adjustment. I dont think there is anything else... but i know i wont realize there is until the print is almost finished πŸ’€

Im working on the back cover of the LED-A-Sketch and considering adding a kickstand. Im gonna try and sand and polish the print to see how it comes up. But in doing that, its gonna be a bitch to sand anything that's intricate, which a built in kickstand would be.

So im now thinking of just leaving the back as empty as possible, and design / print a seperate kickstand. πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

A problem im having with the frame is that the radius on the "face" of the frame is kinda big, originally its 5mm. Im not sure what the radii is on a real etch a sketch, but at 5mm its causing issues with the prints, the overhang is just a little too much, I dont want to use supports cause the scarring would look worse than a shitty overhang.

The print has finished, The surface quality is way better, but i might reduce the radius of the fillet on the outside of the frame, there is some quality issues with the overhang.

Im not really a fan of the smooth texture on the front of the frame, but i wasn't a fan of the texture from my original build plate either.

The new buildplate i have is double sided, and it has a different pattern, so i might try that on a test object and see how it looks, but it looks like a strong pattern so im not sure.

Im re printing the frame, its gonna take like 3 hours, but hopefully the slower speed will help improve the surface finish. πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

I was just making sure everything would fit the height of the frame, and it seems i forgot to allow for the spacer / diffuser, so i have to increase the thickness of the frame by 8mm. Which sucks, cause the current thickness feels / looks good when compared with the original.

The batteries are the tallest thing in the case, so if you was never gonna use it portably, it could be much thinner.